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How can you tell if you’re getting bang for your buck?

Not all Adirondack chairs are created equal, but it’s very difficult to judge quality when you have to base your opinion on just one photo. Here are some of the things to consider when purchasing an Adirondack chair.

Comfort:

When comparing Adirondack chairs, keep these things in mind:

Recline: Adirondack chairs were originally designed to sit on a hill (or mountain), when placed on that inclined surface the chair actually sat straight…most took that chair and placed it on flat surfaces without Adjusting the tilt of the chair – i.e. the standard chair leans back too far, making it difficult to get in and out. Make sure the back is slightly inclined – not like a recliner.

Flat Back vs. Curved Back: Flat backs put stress on your spine when seated, but curved (fan-shaped) backs that are too arched will cause you to hunch your shoulders forward to lean back in the chair, creating tension between your spine shoulder blades leads. The curve should be as slight as the natural curve between your shoulder blades.

Seat Curve: If you see a dramatic curve in seat quotas, it’s not as comfortable as a gentle curve. A dramatic curve creates steep edge angles of the screwed-on slats that dig in when you sit down. Better a flat seat than one that curves excessively, but the slight gentle curve is most accommodating as long as the seat doesn’t curve too much. Excessive rounding can also lead to pressure points behind the knees.

Seat: Some chairs have a wide final seat slat that is specially shaped to fill the gap where the backrest curves around the seat…that gap is actually more comfortable left unfilled than a flat piece of wood does that often digs into the tailbone because it tilts up and follows the curve of the seat of the chair. While it looks nicer, it is less comfortable and can potentially cause lower spine problems.

Seat Front: The front of the Adirondack Chair seat can be cut flat (behind your knees)…if so, remember that this edge can dig in under your knees and create pressure points that cause your feet to fall asleep.

Legs under the seat: The legs under the seat should have a solid bracing system (either cross braces or better yet, a large board bolted in multiple places to create a solid foundation.

Back Bracing: The backrest should be very well braced, particularly where the backrest meets the seat, as this is the weak point of most Adirondack chairs. This is even more true for folding Adirondack chairs. Three back braces are stronger than two and help prevent the chair from wobbling.

These are just some of the things that add to the comfort – of course there will be aesthetic differences in the designs that one will prefer over the other.

Wood:

Not all woods hold up well in all climates, but if you’re looking for something cheap that you’ll be replacing in a year or so, almost any material will do. However, if you are looking for a long-term investment in better quality Adirondack chairs, here are some things to consider.

Pine – is fine for a short time but is not termite resistant and is prone to water damage, mold and rot. To make pine last longer make sure you give it a good finish including a primer and top coat with a high UV rating. Pine can last more than a couple of years but requires regular maintenance. This is a cheap wood that is widely available and most commonly used in third world products (Malaysia, China, etc.). Beware of pressure treated pine as the chemicals used in the pressure treatment can be hazardous to your health.

Cedar – This is the best softwood for longevity as it is naturally resistant to rot and the cedar oils repel insects. Cedar is the wood of choice for decks, boardwalks and the like due to its high durability and ready availability in North America as it is a native wood to our country. Marks and blemishes can be easily sanded away, and cedar can last for generations. If left untreated it will eventually turn a soft silver gray and in a decade will show small cracks in the wood surface, but these will not affect the wood’s strength or lifespan. There are many species of cedar, but the longest-lived of them all is the western red cedar.

Teak – this is a very heavy hardwood that can last incredibly long (generations). Its density gives this wood its high weight and, like cedar wood, is naturally resistant to termites. Teak is an imported and not native wood to North America and with its heavy weight and high demand is incredibly expensive (up to 3 times more expensive than products made from cedar, up to 6 times more expensive than products made from pine). Teak is difficult to maintain as it does not tolerate stains well.

NOTE: Some manufacturers are now aware of global concerns about the destruction of rainforests and wildlife and therefore only use certified sustainably harvested wood. To do your part to save our forests, be sure to ask where the manufacturer sources their wood and if it comes from a certified supplier.

There are many good Adirondack chair manufacturers out there that offer value to their customers. It can take time and effort to find what’s right for you, but can bring endless years of joy if you take the time to choose wisely.

WARNING: Before you buy an Adirondack chair online, be sure to read the fine print – returning Adirondack chairs can be very expensive if you don’t like what you receive (most won’t refund the original shipping cost and you’ll have to pay the return freight and they often charge a restocking fee if that’s okay). This can easily add up to $80 or more per chair. Can you imagine paying $80 or more to return something you don’t want? Don’t put your money at risk when you buy online – read the warranty and return policy FIRST and if they haven’t published one, you can bet they will charge you a fee.

Be sure to read my next blog where I tell you what Adirondack chair manufacturers don’t want you to know… Credit card protection when buying online.

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